Project

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An Iconology of the Textile in Art and Architecture

English title An Iconology of the Textile in Art and Architecture
Applicant Weddigen Tristan
Number 141353
Funding scheme Project funding (Div. I-III)
Research institution Kunsthistorisches Institut Universität Zürich
Institution of higher education University of Zurich - ZH
Main discipline Visual arts and Art history
Start/End 01.09.2013 - 31.08.2016
Approved amount 595'496.00
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Keywords (4)

art history; global art history; cultural exchange; textiles

Lay Summary (English)

Lead
Lay summary

What is a textile? This project explores the history of the textile from the Middle Ages until the present day. Textiles are amongst of the oldest and most significant cultural technologies which are highly present in today’s culture, yet they still receive relatively little scholarly attention. The textile is a flexible and mobile hybrid between material, technology, medium and metaphor which crosses historical periods, cultural spaces and types of artifacts. The project aims at reconstructing the historical and multi-faceted aesthetic discourse of the textile from the Middle Ages until today. The disciplinary approach is art historical, because aesthetic textile artifacts and their representations imply a reflection on ‘textility’ itself. By retracing the historical identity of the textile medium from visual works of art and textual sources, the project aims at fostering Textile Studies, opening a more global view onto Art History, and bringing together the two cultures of the museum and the university.

Direct link to Lay Summary Last update: 21.02.2013

Responsible applicant and co-applicants

Employees

Publications

Publication
L’ordre et le chaos : le lit comme espace pictural et matériel textile
Anika Reineke Anne Röhl (2016), L’ordre et le chaos : le lit comme espace pictural et matériel textile, in Perspective, 2016(1), 171-179.
Materialisations
Anne Röhl (2016), Materialisations, in Jeremy Epstein (ed.), unpag.-unpag..
Post factum
Tristan Weddigen (2016), Post factum, in Perspective. Actualité en histoire de l’art,, 2016 (Nr. 1), 216-218.
Bed-in
Anne Röhl (2015), Bed-in, in Carolin Behrmann (ed.), unpag.-unpag..
Bild-Riss und die Aporie der Sichtbarmachung: Eine Einführung
Mateusz Kapustka (2015), Bild-Riss und die Aporie der Sichtbarmachung: Eine Einführung, in Mateusz Kapustka (ed.), Edition Imorde, Berlin-Emsdetten, 7-17.
Bild-Riss: Textile Öffnungen im ästhetischen Diskurs
Mateusz Kapustka (ed.) (2015), Bild-Riss: Textile Öffnungen im ästhetischen Diskurs.
Clothing the Sacred. An Introduction
Mateusz Kapustka u.a. (2015), Clothing the Sacred. An Introduction, in Mateusz Kapustka u.a. (ed.), 7-11.
Clothing the Sacred: Medieval Textileas as Form, Fabric, and Metaphor
Mateusz Kapustka und Warren Woodfin (ed.) (2015), Clothing the Sacred: Medieval Textileas as Form, Fabric, and Metaphor.
Framing, Illusion, and papillotage in French Eighteenth-Century Tapestry
Anika Reineke (2015), Framing, Illusion, and papillotage in French Eighteenth-Century Tapestry, in Ellen Harlizius-Klück Slavko Kacunko und Hans Körner (ed.), 127-144.
Notes from the field: materiality
Tristan Weddigen (2015), Notes from the field: materiality, in The Art Bulletin, 95(March 2015), 34-37.
Skulptur
Anne Röhl Thomas Hensel (2015), Skulptur, in -, (ed.), ---.
Textile Framings in the Works of Thomas Demand
Anne Röhl (2015), Textile Framings in the Works of Thomas Demand, in Ellen Harlizius-Klück Slavko Kacunko und Hans Körner (ed.), 383-404.
Weaving the face of Christ: On the textile origins of the Christian image
Tristan Weddigen (2015), Weaving the face of Christ: On the textile origins of the Christian image, in Henri de Riedmatten u. a. (ed.), 83-110.
Liturgies of the Void: Seeing Objects as Images
Mateusz Kapustka (2014), Liturgies of the Void: Seeing Objects as Images, in Ulrich Grossmann und Petra Krutisch (ed.), 73-76.
Textile Medien
Tristan Weddigen (2014), Textile Medien, in Jens Schröter (ed.), 234-238.
Textile spaces, interior and exterior
Tristan Weddigen (2014), Textile spaces, interior and exterior, in Gail Feigenbaum und Francesco Freddolini (ed.), 162-165.
Versäumnisse
Mateusz Kapustka Anika Reineke Anne Röhl und Tristan Weddigen (2014), Versäumnisse, in Texte zur Kunst, Bd. 24(Nr. 94), 167-170.
‘Bad Art for Bad People’ – Anthropologie nach Jake und Dinos Chapman
Anne Röhl (2013), ‘Bad Art for Bad People’ – Anthropologie nach Jake und Dinos Chapman, in Kritische Berichte, 1, 117-127.
Pictorial Gravities: Objecthood, Authority and Artistic Invention in Albrecht Dürers Veronicas
Mateusz Kapustka (2013), Pictorial Gravities: Objecthood, Authority and Artistic Invention in Albrecht Dürers Veronicas, in David Young Kim (ed.), Edition Imorde, Berlin-Emsdetten, 89-110.
Unfolding Textile Spaces: Antiquity / Modern Period
Tristan Weddigen (2013), Unfolding Textile Spaces: Antiquity / Modern Period, in Markus Brüderlin (ed.), 88-95.
Fold
Tristan Weddigen, Fold, in Mateusz Kapustka Anika Reineke Anne Röhl und Tristan Weddigen (ed.), ---.
Rags
Mateusz Kapustka, Rags, in Mateusz KapustkaAnika Reineke Anne Röhl und Tristan Weddigen (ed.), ---.
Sampler
Anne Röhl, Sampler, in Mateusz Kapustka Anika Reineke Anne Röhl und Tristan Weddigen (ed.), ---.
Screen
Anika Reineke, Screen, in Mateusz Kapustka Anika Reineke Anne Röhl und Tristan Weddigen (ed.), ---.
Space
Tristan Weddigen, Space, in Mateusz Kapustka Anika Reineke Anne Röhl und Tristan Weddigen (ed.), ---.
Tear
Mateusz Kapustka, Tear, in Mateusz Kapustka Anika Reineke Anne Röhl und Tristan Weddigen (ed.), ---.
Tent
Anika Reineke, Tent, in Mateusz Kapustka Anika Reineke Anne Röhl und Tristan weddigen (ed.), ---.
Textile Terms. A Glossary
Mateusz Kapustka Anika Reineke Anne Röhl und Tristan Weddigen (ed.), Textile Terms. A Glossary.
Weaving
Anne Röhl, Weaving, in Mateusz Kapustka Anik aReineke Anne Röhl und Tristan Weddigen (ed.), ---.

Collaboration

Group / person Country
Types of collaboration
University of Vienna Austria (Europe)
- in-depth/constructive exchanges on approaches, methods or results
- Exchange of personnel
The Abegg Foundation, Riggisberg Switzerland (Europe)
- in-depth/constructive exchanges on approaches, methods or results
Queens College, City University of New York United States of America (North America)
- Publication
Academy Fashion and Design, Berlin Germany (Europe)
- in-depth/constructive exchanges on approaches, methods or results
Mobilier national et Manufactures des Gobelins, Paris France (Europe)
- in-depth/constructive exchanges on approaches, methods or results
Fondation Toms Pauli, Lausanne Switzerland (Europe)
- in-depth/constructive exchanges on approaches, methods or results
Zurich University of the Arts Switzerland (Europe)
- in-depth/constructive exchanges on approaches, methods or results
- Publication
The Bard Graduate Center, New York United States of America (North America)
- in-depth/constructive exchanges on approaches, methods or results
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York United States of America (North America)
- in-depth/constructive exchanges on approaches, methods or results
Arachné (ANR) France (Europe)
- in-depth/constructive exchanges on approaches, methods or results
Katholieke Universiteit Leuven Belgium (Europe)
- in-depth/constructive exchanges on approaches, methods or results
NCCR Mediality, University of Zurich Switzerland (Europe)
- in-depth/constructive exchanges on approaches, methods or results
- Research Infrastructure
Swiss National Museum, Zurich Switzerland (Europe)
- in-depth/constructive exchanges on approaches, methods or results
Research Project "Networks: Textile Arts and Textility from Antiquity to the Present", HU Berlin Germany (Europe)
- in-depth/constructive exchanges on approaches, methods or results
- Publication
- Research Infrastructure
- Exchange of personnel

Scientific events

Active participation

Title Type of contribution Title of article or contribution Date Place Persons involved
Einzelvortrag Individual talk Arbeit im `Needlework Loft´: Judy Chicagos The Dinner Party revisited 09.06.2016 München, Germany Röhl Anne;
Zeichen und Symbole. Kleidung zwischen Bild und Realie Talk given at a conference Clothes for the Mission 18.02.2016 Berlin, Germany Kapustka Mateusz;
Gastvortrag Individual talk A Textile With a View: Framing and Illusion in French Eighteenth-Century Tapestries 16.02.2016 Université Bordeaux Montaigne, France Reineke Anika;
Studientag The Sistine Chapel Talk given at a conference Raphael’s Tapestries for the Sistine Chapel 05.10.2015 Vatikan, Vatican State Weddigen Tristan;
Workshops Textiles & Context, Centre for Textile Research, Kopenhagen Talk given at a conference Woven Spaces: Textiles and Concepts of Space in French Rococo Interior 23.09.2015 Kopenhagen, Denmark Reineke Anika;
Einzelvortrag Individual talk Text and Texture: Gendered Discourses of Textiles in Art since 1965 30.08.2015 Harvard University, United States of America Röhl Anne;
Einzelvortrag Individual talk Muster und Rapport: Wandbespannungen des Rokoko 02.07.2015 Münster, Germany Reineke Anika;
Swiss Doctoral Summerschool for Art History Talk given at a conference Zur textilen Handarbeit in der Videokunst 26.06.2015 Zürich, Switzerland Röhl Anne;
Unzeitgemäße Techniken? Zur Wiederaufnahme und Fortsetzung künstlerischer Verfahren Talk given at a conference Elektronische Handarbeit. Zum Einsatz textiler Techniken in der Videokunst der 1970er Jahre 12.06.2015 Berlin, Germany Röhl Anne;
Gastvortrag Individual talk Making and Unmaking: Louise Bourgeois's Textile Objects 03.04.2015 Philadelphia, United States of America Weddigen Tristan;
Ringvorlesung Das Kleine. Mikroformate in Literatur, Kunst, Medien Talk given at a conference Stoffproben und Petit Point. Kunstdiskurse in textilen Kleinformaten 28.01.2015 Siegen, Germany Röhl Anne;
Textile Räume. Seide im höfischen Interieur des 18. Jahrhunderts Talk given at a conference Von der Tapisserie zum Damast: Bild- und Raumrezeption seidener Wandbespannungen im 18. Jahrhundert 17.09.2014 Potsdam, Germany Reineke Anika;
Festival de l'histoire de l'art Talk given at a conference L’œuvre de Pénélope : Louise Bourgeois défait l’objet 30.05.2014 Fontainebleau, France Weddigen Tristan;
DFG-Workshop “Selvedge to Selvedge – Textile Arts and Textility from Antiquity to the Present” Talk given at a conference Gendering Textiles in Post-war and Contemporary Art 09.05.2014 Florenz, Italy Röhl Anne;
DFG-Workshop “Selvedge to Selvedge – Textile Arts and Textility from Antiquity to the Present” Talk given at a conference Textile Spaces and the Conception of Interior in 18th-Century France 09.05.2014 Flroenz, Italy Reineke Anika;
Framings Talk given at a conference The Opaque Art / Framework. The Textile in Works of Thomas Demand 01.12.2013 Kopenhagen, Denmark Röhl Anne;
Framings Talk given at a conference Re-Framing the Early Modern Image 29.11.2013 Kopenhagen, Denmark Weddigen Tristan;
Il sistema del velo: trasparenze e opacità nell’arte moderna e contemporanea Talk given at a conference Textile Spaces 30.10.2013 Turin, Italy Weddigen Tristan;
Interdisziplinäres Kolloquium Gender Studies Talk given at a conference Wiedergänger Textiler Mythen in der Gegenwartskunst 23.10.2013 Zürich, Switzerland Röhl Anne;
Gastvortrag Individual talk Textile Räume 23.10.2013 Bern, Switzerland Weddigen Tristan;


Self-organised

Title Date Place

Communication with the public

Communication Title Media Place Year
Print (books, brochures, leaflets) Textile Terms: A Glossary Western Switzerland International Rhaeto-Romanic Switzerland Italian-speaking Switzerland German-speaking Switzerland 2016
Print (books, brochures, leaflets) Versäumnisse, in: Texte zur Kunst, vol. 24 (94), 2014, s. 167-170 International Rhaeto-Romanic Switzerland Italian-speaking Switzerland German-speaking Switzerland Western Switzerland 2014
New media (web, blogs, podcasts, news feeds etc.) Website Western Switzerland International German-speaking Switzerland 2013

Awards

Title Year
Wittkower-Gastprofessur an der Biblioteca Hertziana in Rom (MPI) für Tristan Weddigen 2016

Associated projects

Number Title Start Funding scheme
133977 Metatextile: Identity and History of a Contemporary Art Medium 01.11.2010 Publication grants
119134 Eine Ikonologie des Textilen in Kunst und Architektur 01.03.2008 SNSF Professorships

Abstract

What is a textile? This collaborative project proposes to explore the history of the textile from the Middle Ages until the present day, both from a European and a global perspective. Textiles are amongst of the oldest and most significant cultural technologies which are highly present in today’s culture, yet they still receive relatively little scholarly attention. The textile is a flexible and mobile hybrid between material, technology, medium and metaphor which crosses historical periods, cultural spaces and types of artifacts. The project aims at reconstructing the historical and multi-faceted aesthetic discourse of the textile from the Middle Ages until today. The disciplinary approach is art historical, because aesthetic textile artifacts and their representations imply a reflection on ‘textility’ itself. By retracing the historical identity of the textile medium from visual works of art and textual sources, the project aims at fostering Textile Studies, opening a more global view onto Art History and bringing together the two cultures of the museum and the university.The collaborative project consists of two teams with complementary subjects: TEXTILE (An Iconology of the Textile in Art and Architecture) is based at the Leading House, the University of Zurich. Directed by Prof. Dr. Tristan Weddigen, the team includes one part-time SNSF Postdoctoral Researcher as a project coordinator and two SNSF Doctoral Researchers, complemented by two Postdoctoral Researchers funded by the ERC until mid-2013. This research group focuses on the European history of the textile in art and architecture and proposes three interconnected subject areas: Textile Mythologies, Textile and Painterly Metaphors, and Textile Spaces and Narratives.NETWORKS (Textile Arts and Textility in a Transcultural Perspective, 4th to 17th centuries) is the DFG joint project based at the Humboldt University of Berlin. Directed by Prof. Dr. Gerhard Wolf, the team is comprised of two DFG Doctoral Researchers who focus on the history of the global migration of textiles and motifs. There are three interconnected subject areas: TheTransfer of Knowledge and Its Making, The Sacred: Veiling, Enveloping, Creating Space, and Aesthetics and Iconology: From Textile to Textility. Both projects will share each other’s international networks of scholars and research institutions related to textiles studies. The teams will meet together in yearly workshops and organize a final international conference as well as contribute to one exhibition and its catalogue.The previous research accomplishments of the Zurich team includes two SNSF and ERC grants along with two Ph.D. theses and several edited books, articles, conferences, workshops and papers. The research activity of the Berlin team consists of the PI’s numerous publications on textile imagery and cross-cultural exchange which is also the subject a ongoing research project funded by the Getty Foundation. The two PI’s not only share textile-related research topics, but their respective scholarly networks and contexts also promise excellent synergies.Committed to methodologically and historiographically reflected scholarly practice, the research tandem embraces a broad view across media, periods and cultures. At the same time, the project has a clearly and rigorously defined focus of interest and thus hopes to contribute to the further development of Art History towards a general History of Objects and their changing meanings.
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